Adventures in drinking: Tracy versus Tongba 13 November 2008 12:49 pm
Posted by Tracy in : books,friends,Kathmandu,Morning Glory,nepal,pictures,travel , trackbackWhen my friend Matthew heard that I was going to Nepal, he told me, “You’ve got to try millet beer.” During our trek, we were strongly advised to drink only what our kitchen crew had boiled for us, or bottled beverages — nothing locally brewed, no matter how fresh. But once we got back to Kathmandu…
Final score: Tracy 1, Tongba many. Here’s what I wrote in my journal entry on 2 November 2007, in Kathmandu, illustrated with photos by me and my brother Piett.
* * * * *
MILLET BEER REPORT 2007
(for Matthew): This shit is bananas.
After almost 3 weeks of being warned away from Nepali chhung, tonight at dinner I got daring and ordered the Utse’s version of tongba — Tibetan millet beer. What I got was a HUGE wooden cup filled 3/4 or maybe even 5/6 full of fermented millet (and) diluted with just enough hot water that I could stir the resultant cloudy brothy liquid with the straw (also wooden) provided for sipping the stuff. Oh, and a big pot of hot water for when I drained my cup of liquid, which was fairly often.
The drink itself was a bit disappointing after all the anticipation and excitement of its presentation — sour, ferment-y, and distinctly boozariffic. However, it was a very good accompaniment to our dinner, another Tibetan specialty with the completely cryptic name of Gacok.
* * * * *
Later, I realized that tongba reminded me of warm unfiltered sake, which increased my appreciation somewhat. I’m not sure what I had been expecting, but understanding it in sake terms instead of other drinks helped put it in perspective. Also helpful: drinking more, and sharing with my family:
Guess who had seconds, Mom or Piett?
Next Nepal post: more about Gacok, and general praise of the Hotel Utse restaurant.
